Guide

Victorian Penny Value UK: Bun Head & Old Head Complete Guide

The Victorian penny is the cornerstone of any 19th-century British coin collection. Struck in bronze from 1860 to 1901, the series breaks into the iconic Bun Head portrait (1860–1894) and the austere Old Head / Veiled Head portrait (1895–1901). Common dates trade at £1–£5 in circulated grade; key dates such as the 1869 and the 1882 without H mintmark reach £500–£3,000. This guide covers identification, the rare-date list, variety hunting, patina assessment and where to buy authenticated examples.

Last updated: 7 May 2026
Victorian bronze penny reverse, Britannia design used across the Bun Head and Old Head series
Victorian Bun Head penny reverse. Leonard Charles Wyon's seated Britannia design, used from the 1860 transition to bronze coinage right through to the end of Victoria's reign in 1901, with subtle revisions between the Bun Head and Old Head portrait phases.
In brief. The Victorian bronze penny ran 1860–1901 in two portrait phases: Bun Head (Wyon, 1860–1894) and Old Head / Veiled Head (Brock, 1895–1901). Common circulated dates trade at £1–£5; UNC examples at £30–£200. Headline rarities: 1869 (mintage 2.58M) at £100–£1,500; 1882 no H at £500–£3,000; pattern strikings at £3,000+. Patina (deep chocolate brown) is highly desirable; cleaning typically destroys 50–80% of value. Counterfeits and date alterations are widespread on the rarities — authenticate any candidate over £200 before paying.

The Victorian Bun Head penny (1860–1894)

In 1860 the Royal Mint replaced the previous copper penny (1797–1860, 34 mm and 18.8 g) with a smaller, lighter bronze coin (30.81 mm and 9.4 g). The new design was the work of Leonard Charles Wyon, whose obverse showed Victoria with her hair pulled back into a tidy bun. The reverse depicted Britannia seated by the sea, holding a trident, with a lighthouse on the right and a ship on the left.

The Bun Head series ran for 35 years and is one of the most-collected portrait runs in British numismatics. Several minor varieties exist within the series, distinguished by reverse details (lighthouse and ship variants, rim border styles) and obverse die states (the "9" and "6" digits in date positions evolved subtly over the decades). For most collectors, the important distinctions are date and grade; for advanced collectors, the variety nuances multiply the price differentials substantially.

Bun Head pennies were struck in three places over the run:

  • The Royal Mint, Tower Hill — the primary producer for the entire series.
  • Ralph Heaton & Sons, Birmingham — produced under contract in 1874, 1875, 1876, 1881, 1882 and a few other years. These coins carry an H mintmark below the date.
  • James Watt & Co — produced a small batch in 1860–1862 (rare; specialists\' market only).

The Victorian Old Head penny (1895–1901)

In 1893 (silver) and 1895 (bronze) the Royal Mint replaced Wyon\'s Bun Head portrait with Thomas Brock\'s Old Head, also called the Veiled Head. The new portrait showed Victoria as an elderly widow, in her veil and a small crown — an explicit visual statement of mourning for Prince Albert (who had died in 1861). The Old Head portrait ran on the penny from 1895 to 1901, the final year of Victoria\'s reign.

The Old Head penny retains the bronze format (30.81 mm, 9.4 g) and the Britannia reverse, with subtle revisions: the lighthouse beams differ slightly, the ship sits at a different angle, and the rim border carries a different beaded pattern. For pricing purposes, Old Head pennies trade at small premium over equivalent-date Bun Heads — not because they\'re scarcer (mintages were similar) but because the seven-year run produces a more contained set that is easier to complete.

Notable Old Head dates:

  • 1895 "dot" vs "no-dot". The first-year issue exists in two reverse varieties distinguished by a small dot near the "ONE PENNY" legend. The dot variant is scarcer and trades at 50–100% premium.
  • 1897 high tide vs low tide. Two reverse die states differing in the apparent water level around Britannia\'s feet. Easy to miss but matters for completionists.
  • 1901. Victoria\'s final year; high mintage and not particularly rare, but a popular "closing the reign" piece for collectors.

Key dates to know

The 19th century includes several Victorian penny dates that command significant premium. Be aware that 1903 is not Victorian — that\'s Edward VII, who succeeded Victoria in January 1901, so 1902 onwards belongs to a different series. Within the Victorian range:

Year & typeWhy notableMintageRealised range (circulated — UNC)
1860 Bun Head, toothed First-year bronze; transition from copper 5.05 million £5 — £200
1869 Key date. Lowest Bun Head mintage 2.58 million £100 — £1,500
1873 narrow date Reverse variety on otherwise-common year n/a (subset) £15 — £120
1874 H Heaton Heaton mint contract 6.66 million £5 — £75
1881 H Heaton Heaton mint contract 3.76 million £8 — £120
1882 H Heaton Common 1882 issue 7.53 million £3 — £60
1882 NO H Major rarity. Royal Mint without H mintmark Unknown; survival in low hundreds £500 — £3,000
1895 dot reverse First-year Old Head, dot variety n/a (subset) £25 — £200
1895 no-dot reverse First-year Old Head, common variety 5.39 million £5 — £80
1860 Bun Head pattern Pattern striking; tiny mintage Single-digit population £3,000 — £15,000

Realised prices by year cluster and grade

For collectors building a Victorian penny date run on a budget, the table below summarises typical realised price ranges for non-rarity years across the main grades. These are the everyday Bun Head and Old Head dates — not the 1869 or 1882-no-H outliers covered above.

Year clusterVGFVFEFUNC
1860–1869 (early Bun Head) £3 — £8 £6 — £15 £15 — £35 £40 — £120 £100 — £300
1870–1880 (mid Bun Head) £2 — £5 £4 — £10 £10 — £25 £25 — £80 £60 — £200
1881–1894 (late Bun Head) £1 — £4 £3 — £8 £8 — £20 £20 — £60 £50 — £150
1895–1901 (Old Head) £1 — £4 £3 — £8 £8 — £20 £20 — £55 £40 — £130

Ranges are realised auction sales over 24 months from Baldwin\'s, Spink, Noonans and dealer published price lists. Within each cluster, individual years vary — particularly 1869 (sharply higher) and the Heaton-mintmark years.

Spotting Bun Head varieties

A complete Victorian penny collection isn\'t just about dates — it\'s about the varieties within each year. Five high-impact varieties to watch for:

  • 1860 toothed vs beaded border. The first-year bronze penny exists with two rim styles. Toothed (the more common) shows individual short bars around the rim; beaded shows small round dots. Beaded is rarer and trades at 30–50% premium.
  • 1873 narrow date vs wide date. The spacing of the "1873" differs between two die states. Wide-date variants are scarcer.
  • Open vs closed 9. Several Bun Head years (especially 1879–1889) show differences in how the "9" loop closes at the top. Closed 9 is the more common form; open 9 is scarcer on certain dates.
  • 1879 wide vs narrow date. Similar to 1873; the spacing distinction matters for variety collectors.
  • Lighthouse and ship varieties. Throughout the Bun Head series, the reverse has at least four distinct die states for the Britannia scene. The "Gouby" reference series (Michael Gouby\'s standard catalogue) documents these in detail.

For a casual collector, dates and grade are sufficient. For a serious Victorian penny collection, a copy of The British Bronze Penny 1860–1901 by Michael Gouby is the standard variety reference and a worthwhile £30 investment.

Cleaning and patina — what affects value

Victorian pennies develop a distinctive surface over decades: the original mint-red copper oxidises to a deep chocolate brown, sometimes with subtle blue or violet iridescence on high-relief areas. This patina is highly desirable to collectors. Three rules:

  1. Don\'t clean. No brass cleaner, no acid, no abrasive. Cleaning strips the chocolate patina and leaves the surface with a harsh pink/orange "new" cast that no informed buyer wants. Cleaned Victorian pennies typically lose 50–80% of their value. PCGS and NGC will assign a "Cleaned" details grade or refuse to grade.
  2. Original red is rare and valuable. An "original red" Bun Head penny with substantial mint-red surfaces remaining is exceptional and trades at significant premium (often 5–10× the standard UNC price). These are usually pristine ex-Royal-Mint specimens that escaped circulation entirely.
  3. Verdigris is bad. Green crust on copper indicates active corrosion, usually from PVC-induced acidic damage. It can be conserved by a professional but it permanently affects value. Avoid coins with visible verdigris unless the price reflects the condition.

The single best investment in protecting a Victorian penny\'s value is replacing any PVC storage with inert Mylar or polypropylene. PVC off-gases hydrochloric acid over decades and produces the characteristic green slime on copper alloys. Modern coin albums (Lighthouse, Whitman, Saflib) and 2x2 cardboard holders with Mylar windows are inert and inexpensive.

Counterfeit risks

Victorian pennies are widely faked at three risk tiers. Knowing each helps you avoid losses:

  • Period cast counterfeits (1880s–1920s). Genuine forgeries from the Victorian period itself, usually slightly underweight and undersize, with fine-detail loss. These are increasingly easy to spot under magnification and have historical interest of their own. Most numismatists treat them as collectibles in their own right rather than outright fakes.
  • Date-altered modern fakes. The most active threat today. Counterfeiters take a common host coin (e.g. 1865 or 1868) and rework the final digit to create a 1869. Tooling marks under 10x loupe usually reveal these — parallel scratches near the digit edges, depressions where metal was cut, or spacing slightly off compared to a working-die reference. Anything claimed to be a 1869 under £100 should be assumed altered until professionally graded.
  • Modern reproductions. Cheap mass-produced Victorian penny copies from Eastern Europe and China appear regularly online. Usually one of three giveaways: wrong weight, wrong alloy (golden brass instead of bronze) or wrong diameter. These are simple to identify with a scale and calliper and should never deceive an attentive buyer.

Browse every UK penny in the catalogue →

Buying authenticated Victorian pennies on eBay

Sold listings — what real buyers actually paid

We earn a small commission on eBay purchases through these links — at no cost to you. It helps keep MyCoinage free.

Frequently asked questions

What is a Victorian penny?
A bronze penny struck during the reign of Queen Victoria (1837–1901). The Victorian penny series breaks into three portrait phases: copper Young Head (1837–1860, 30+ years of pre-bronze copper coinage), bronze Bun Head (1860–1894, the "classic" Victorian penny most collectors picture) and bronze Old Head / Veiled Head (1895–1901, the final Victorian portrait by Thomas Brock). The transition from copper to bronze in 1860 also reduced the penny's diameter from 34 mm to 30.81 mm and the weight from 18.8 g to 9.4 g, the dimensions still used into the 1960s.
How much is a Victorian penny worth?
In circulated grade, common Bun Head years (1861–1894) trade at £1–£5; Old Head pennies (1895–1901) at £1–£6. Uncirculated Bun Head pennies with full lustre command £30–£200 depending on year and eye appeal. Key dates — 1869, 1882 (no H mintmark), 1895 (with dot vs without dot) — trade in the £100–£3,000 range depending on grade. Pattern strikings (1860 Bun Head proof, etc) reach £3,000–£15,000. The headline Victorian-penny rarities are 1869 (low mintage of 2.58 million), 1882 without the Heaton mintmark (extremely rare) and 1933… which is George V, not Victorian, so let's not confuse the two.
What is a "Bun Head" penny?
The popular name for the Victorian penny portrait used from 1860 to 1894. Designed by Leonard Charles Wyon, the obverse shows Victoria with her hair gathered into a bun at the back of her head — hence the name. The reverse design (also Wyon's) shows Britannia seated, holding a trident, with a lighthouse to the right and a ship to the left. Two minor reverse varieties exist within the Bun Head series, distinguished by the lighthouse design and the "toothed" vs "beaded" rim borders. Identifying these correctly is essential for accurate pricing of any Bun Head penny.
What is the "Old Head" or Veiled Head penny?
Victoria's final portrait, used 1895–1901, designed by Thomas Brock. The obverse shows Victoria in her widow's veil and crown, the same austere "Veiled Head" portrait used across her late silver and gold coinage. The reverse retains the Britannia design but with subtle revisions to the lighthouse, the ship and the rim border. The Old Head penny is technically simpler to identify than the Bun Head because the portrait is unmistakable, but it shares the 30.81 mm bronze format and Britannia reverse so the difference is essentially obverse-only.
How can I tell a 1869 Victorian penny from a date-altered fake?
The 1869 is the headline rarity of the Bun Head series with a mintage of just 2.58 million — one tenth the typical Victorian penny year. Counterfeits are typically reworked 1860s, 1865s, 1866s or 1868s with the final digit altered. Five tests: (1) weight 9.4 g; (2) diameter 30.81 mm; (3) edge plain, sharp and uniform; (4) date digits — under 10x loupe, both 6 and 9 should match the typeface of the working dies. The most common alteration is a 1868 or 1865 with the final digit reworked. Tooling marks parallel to the digit edges, slight depressions and unusual letter spacing are all telltale; (5) obverse legend spacing — common counterfeits show legend spacing slightly off because the obverse die used was from a different year.
What's the difference between "1882" and "1882 H" pennies?
Major value difference. In 1882 the Royal Mint outsourced part of penny production to Ralph Heaton & Sons of Birmingham, whose mint added an "H" mintmark below the date. Most 1882 pennies carry the H. The very few 1882 pennies without H — struck at the Royal Mint itself — are exceptionally rare; mintage figures are not precisely recorded but the surviving population is in the low hundreds. A common 1882 H trades at £3–£15 in circulated grade; a 1882 without H realises £500–£3,000 in equivalent grade. Always check below the date on any 1882 penny.
Should I clean a Victorian penny?
No. Victorian pennies develop a deep brown to chocolate patina over decades of handling and oxidation, which is highly desirable to collectors. Cleaning — whether with brass cleaner, vinegar, ketchup, lemon juice or anything abrasive — strips this patina and leaves the surfaces with a harsh pink/orange "new" look that no informed buyer wants. Cleaned Victorian pennies typically lose 50–80% of their value compared to original-surface examples in the same grade. PCGS and NGC will assign a "Cleaned" details grade or refuse to grade altogether. The only acceptable handling is a gentle warm-water rinse to remove loose dust, with no rubbing or chemical agents.
Are Victorian pennies a good entry point for collecting?
Excellent. Common Bun Head years are widely available at £1–£5 each, the design is iconic and the date run (1860–1901) is achievable on a moderate budget. A complete Victorian Bun Head set in circulated grade (excluding the 1869 and 1882 no-H rarities) costs around £200–£500. Adding the Old Head years (1895–1901) is another £30–£100. The full date run including the rarities runs into £3,000+. As a first historical-coin focus, the Victorian penny series teaches grading, variety identification, market pricing and patina assessment in a relatively forgiving price range.
Where can I buy authenticated Victorian pennies?
Reputable specialist dealers are the best route for any Bun Head or Old Head penny worth more than £30. Try Baldwin's, Spink, Colin Cooke or ATS Bullion / Medals. For slabbed examples, CGS UK and NGC publish pop reports. eBay UK has substantial Victorian penny inventory but counterfeits and date-altered coins are common — stick to dealers with feedback over 10,000 and clear return policies, or buy slabbed.
Are there any famous Victorian penny varieties I should know about?
Yes, several. The 1860 transition includes both copper Young Head (final year) and bronze Bun Head (first year) issues, with multiple obverse and reverse varieties for collectors of die studies. The 1873 narrow-date vs wide-date distinction affects price by 30–50%. The 1874 H Heaton issue is more common than the 1874 Royal Mint. The 1881 H is similarly Heaton-struck. The 1895 dot vs no-dot reverse varieties are easily missed and command different prices. The 1897 high tide / low tide reverse refers to the level of the sea behind Britannia. Each adds nuance to a Victorian penny collection and each has its own price band.
What about counterfeits from the secondary market?
Victorian pennies are widely faked at three risk tiers. Cast counterfeits are mostly from the late 19th and early 20th century, often slightly underweight and undersize, usually showing fine-detail loss. They're increasingly easy to spot under magnification but were trade-acceptable for decades. Date-altered modern fakes (especially of the 1869 and 1882 no-H rarities) are the most active threat today; they take a common host coin and rework the digit. Outright modern reproductions from China and Eastern Europe are common online and easily identified by overall sharp mechanical detail combined with wrong weight or wrong alloy. Anything claimed to be a 1869 or 1882 no-H penny under £200 should be assumed fake until grading proves otherwise.
How do I store Victorian pennies properly?
Three priorities. Avoid PVC. Vintage flips, sleeves and album pages from the 1960s–1990s often used PVC plastic, which off-gases hydrochloric acid over decades and produces the characteristic green slime on bronze. Replace any PVC with inert Mylar, polypropylene or polyethylene. Control humidity. Bronze tarnishes faster in humid conditions; aim for under 50% relative humidity in the storage area. Avoid handling. Touch only the edge with clean, dry hands, or wear cotton gloves for any high-value piece. Skin oils accelerate the corrosion that turns chocolate-brown patina to splotchy verdigris. Modern coin albums (Lighthouse, Whitman, Saflib) and 2x2 cardboard holders with Mylar windows are inert and inexpensive.
Share this guide X Facebook WhatsApp Email
Read next

More coin-value guides